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The best closeup I took. She was 5 feet away. |
I have had a hard time and have been procrastinating writing this
blog. I have also reached the limits of
my Olympus Point and Shoot camera on this trip.
A proper digital SLR camera is really
needed for wildlife.
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The path to Camp Leakey |
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Mom with baby. Mom's drinking the vitamin milk. |
Just like the Komodo dragons, I find it difficult describe
our experience with the orangutans to the extent that it deserves. It's one of those 'need to be there' type of
places and was for sure one of the coolest things we have ever done. Fortunately, this is one of the places that
non-boaters can actually get to. There
are daily flights to the Pangkalan Bun Airport (PKN) from
Jakarta and a few nice hotels to
choose from in Pangkalan Bun. From there, Harry's Yacht Service will set
you up with whatever you need for your 2 or 3 day trip. http://harryyachtservice.blogspot.co.id/
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Junior, Mom, and Baby |
The word orangutan comes from the Malaysian language. Orang means Person, Utan means Forest. Orangutans are only on the islands of Borneo
and Sumatra. We
did a two day trip to the Tajung Puting
National Park to see these Great
Apes in their natural habitat.
Unfortunately that habitat is rapidly disappearing due to deforestation.
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Trying to squeeze around the fence post |
Orangutans share 97% of our DNA
which is actually less than the chimpanzee, but the 97% appears to be in the
parts of the human genome that actually matter.
So orangutans appear to be much more closely related to humans than chimpanzees. They are among the most intelligent primates,
orangutans are adept at using a number of sophisticated tools to gather food
and also make sleeping nests each night from branches and leaves. research
suggests that different orangutan groups acquire different skills which are
maintained and transmitted in a population through social learning.
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The babies never let go of their mothers |
We visited 3 park stations.
The rangers put out bananas and vitamin milk at the daily feedings. During the dry season, there aren't many
forest fruits to eat so there are many more orangutans visiting the platforms
at feeding time. During the wet season
when forest fruits are more plentiful, there may not be any visiting apes.
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When you can't carry baby and bananas, just shove the bananas in your mouth |
Orangutan rehabilitation used to be done here but now is
only done at Sepilok, Sabah in Malaysian Borneo. Baby orangutans are illegally poached for
pets. The mothers are killed by the
poachers since they will fight to the death rather than give up their
baby. These babies are sooner or later
found and returned for rehabilitation. Babies
are also orphaned because their mothers were killed intentionally by illegal
logging and deforestation. They haven't
learned the necessary skills to survive in the wild from their mothers so
caretakers raise them like their mothers would have done.
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Moms take the kids for a snack |
Princess, an orphan rehabilitated in the 80's was taught sign
language by her caretaker. She is now a
mother and still lives in the Tajung Puting and comes for feedings.
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They should get rid of these pigs |
We went to Camp Leakey
on our first day. We were the only ones
there since all the flights had been cancelled for the past two days due to
poor visibility from the smoke. There
were wild boars by the feeding platform eating scraps and peels that fell on to
the ground. The orangutans seemed to be
bothered by them and we did hear that a baby was killed by one a year ago.
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Ready for the Olympics? |
It's difficult to describe the feeling when waiting for and
watching these great apes. Initially you
will see a tree moving in the distance.
As the female orangutan, who weighs around 85 pounds, swings and climbs
closer and closer to the platform, the trees are bending, shaking, and
cracking. They may sit on a branch,
watch, wait, look at us, look at the boars, look at the bananas, and finally
just saunter on down. They seem to not
want to touch the ground and will go out of their way and even use tiny trees,
that look like they wouldn't even support a bird nest, to make their way across
the jungle.
Their balance is incredible and they are ten times stronger
than humans. Their feet are just like
their hands. They have four fingers and opposable thumbs. They will hang from anything available from any available appendage. Like humans, they have no tails.
A few times, they came right through our group from
behind. We were mere feet from these big
hairy apes but there was never any sense of fear from either us or these
apes. There was a sense of calm and
peace as they worked their way through us toward the bananas, carrying their
babies, or holding hands with their adolescents.
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More bananas 'to go' |
On our second day, flights were again operating and there
were more people at the morning feeding at the Pondok Tanggui Station and the
afternoon feeding at Tanjung Harapan. We
saw the dominant male, Gundal, at Harapan.
I missed the photo of a lifetime because my camera's memory was
full. With all that hair and weighing
close to 200 pounds, he looked tremendous.
Giant trees bent under his weight.
Treetops shook like King Kong was moving through the jungle. All other orangutans left the platform when
he came. He stayed just a few minutes
then moved on into the jungle leaving only the sound of breaking branches and
shaking leaves.
It is a real shame that these gentle, timid forest people
are being driven to extinction like many other species on earth.
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